Megatune for trombone how to#
Megatune for trombone update#

IAT+CLT is now calibrated using above hex files. E.g cyl 1 is labeled inj D, cyl 4 is inj A. Using the V3harness on the engine I had to reverse the injector order since the main harness is on the transmission side of the engine. IAT + CLT needs calibrating, and Im getting ready to try out some configs to see if it starts. VEMS has been ordered with above specifications. Pipeworks, welding intake / downpipe is soon done.More info about this sensor here MembersPage/SteinOvePrestmo/SensorPageД«lue water temp sensor curve (from G60 selfstudy pdf):Д¬ltfactor_2252_256.hex (based on sensor curve above)ДЄirXfactor_2063_256.hex (based on prestmo sensorpage for 20vt IAT)

Megatune for trombone how to#

Figure out how to get TACH signal: instructions from Jorgen at MembersPage/PaalPolizei/TACHSignal.

v3harness, I4 with relays - I am VERY satisfied with this harness.

Control boost with 3way pneumatic valve (Currently unused).

Any installation should be verified with strobing no matter what.

After strobing my engine I ended up at 64,5 degrees 'TDC after the trigger'.

it's easy to get into the ballpark (+-6 crankdeg) with InputTrigger/TriggerLog, but it's really a good idea to verify via strobing anyway.

is this measured or speculation ? verified via strobing ?.

Trigger settings example from emil (2007):

Steel backing plate: 030103647E (~20 EUR) - also possible to use OEM PG (g60) plate, with minor cutting.

sealing flange with 60-2 trigger wheel and plastic clip to align wheel with housing: 030103171L (~65 EUR).

If you need to remove the triggerwheel, use the screws holding the oil seal to the block, and screw them gently into the brass threads. The orange plastic clip is nice to use for alignment, since it will give you a somewhat predictable 'TDC after the trigger' in VEMS (it aligns the wheel at 85 degrees BTDC). Note additional mounting instructions above

Ensure there is no contact between steel cover and trigger wheel, and that the hall trigger itself has enough room. This will push the trigger wheel far enough onto the crank, and this ensures it wont rub against the oil seal. Fit the flywheel onto the crank, and tighthen carefully. Carefully push the trigger wheel onto the crank In addition I did a really poor job at modifying the steel cover to accomodate the trigger itself. When I initially mounted it the ring got pressed too far onto the crank, and the result was rubbing against the oil seal -> trigger wheel skipped ~45 degrees. This happened at 2500 rpm, no load, and stopped the engine with a nice pop out the exhaust. Ensure the trigger assembly plastic casing will be flush with the block, and that the bolt + rubber grommet for the hall trigger is sufficiently grinded down.ДЄfter a miserable user-error during mounting, I had to remove the transmission + clutch assembly to re-align the trigger wheel. Hall-trigger bolt and wire will need to be grinded down ~1,5-2 mm to get clearance from the block.

Use your favorite gasket sealant on the outer side of the o-ring. Trigger assembly has o-ring seal - do *not* use the paper gasket. Note the following important differences if you are planning to use this kind of trigger assembly: Waiting eagerly to see how long it lives.

Chinese fuel pump mounted inside tank.

034EFI idle stepper motor (Not used, using idle screw on TB).

440cc (high impedance) injectors and 3,5 bar FPR (Porsche OEM with Ross Machine Racing FPR adaptor).

OEM 60-2 trigger wheel, HALL sensor - pinout: pin 3 = signal gnd, pin 2 = signal, pin 1 = +5v.

S2 intake manifold with S2 TB throttlebody - pinout: pin 3 = signal, pin 2 = signal gnd, pin 1 = +5v.

The car, today (2009, 2010, 2011, forever foreseeable future):

Megatune for trombone update#

Time to update progress in 2009 2010 2011.ДЄpply a GenBoard/VerThree (V3.3) to my Polizei-golf's new engine. My name is Paal, working and playing with toy cars in Bergen, Norway.